Coolshanagh produces a small amount (1200 cases) of estate grown chardonnay all off a west south-west facing vineyard at 49.6 degrees north. To me this is a true cult wine because it’s extremely limited and the quality is very fine. Burgundy is the model, winemaker Matt Dumayne is in charge, and sensibly the wine is much more about the scrubby pine trees and grasses that dot the landscape that clings to a ledge high above the lake. The grapes are fermented whole cluster in neutral French oak and new French foudres with smaller amounts placed into egg-shaped concrete fermenters. The two are mixed together and placed in concrete egg-shaped vessels for ten months of lees contact. Size matters at Coolshanagh (the name translates to 'a meeting place') and because the vineyard is small, the fruit is picked, block by block, several times. In 2016 it began in mid-September and ran into early October. Post ageing and lees stirring it was bottled without fining or filtration. This is the most elegant Coolshanagh yet, offering electric acidity, creamy lees textures and rich layered apple/pear with some of the best French oak framing I have experienced in the Okanagan. Wow.