This small family house owns five, well-located, mid-slope Grand Cru hectares in Ambonnay, and is now run by Serge Billiot's daughter Laetitia, who has been a leading force in Champagne for younger, woman winemakers. The Reserve is a blend of 75 percent pinot noir and 25 percent chardonnay with 24 months on the lees, and crafted of 50 percent 2014, 25 percent 2013, 25 percent 2012. All of the wines are fermented in enameled stainless steel, and none undergo MLF, fining or filtration, the latter three choices all bold moves in Champagne, and ones that pay off in complexity. The wine is honeyed, nutty and full of crackable creme brûlée, with an undercurrent of fresh red apple, Rainier cherry and lemon tones. There's a seasoning of nutmeg and cinnamon that lingers on the shimmery finish. Polished, and authentic.
Treve Ring & Anthony Gismondi, Décembre 2017